Hotel Secrets

Confirm an air conditioned room if travelling between June and September. The listing notes that only some rooms have it, and Istanbul summer nights in wooden buildings can be warm without cooling.

Use the Marmaray from Cankurtaran or Kumkapı station for trips to the Asian side. Few tourists notice these stations, yet trains reach Üsküdar in minutes through the tunnel under the Bosphorus, a fascinating ride in itself.

Visit Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque in the morning, between prayers. The tiles are best seen in soft daylight, and the mosque is usually empty. Ask the caretaker politely if the door is closed; he often opens it for respectful visitors.

For dinner in Kumkapı, choose a meyhane recommended by the reception. Some tavernas there are aimed at tourists with inflated prices, while others serve excellent meze and fish to local families. Agree on the price of the fish per kilogram before it is cooked.

Borrow a bicycle in the early morning and ride along the Marmara coastal park toward Yenikapı. The route follows the sea walls with views of ships waiting to enter the Bosphorus, and returning before the heat and traffic is easy.

Ask for breakfast in the room on the day of an early departure or a late start. Staff arrange it willingly, and eating Turkish breakfast on a small terrace above the old city is one of the quiet pleasures this particular house can offer.